Anyone who has been in the Anderson Valley for any length of time is familiar with the Floodgate Store on Highway 128 in Philo. Over the years many businesses established there have had some prepared food component. Sometimes it was more of a general store, sometimes it was a restaurant and sometimes a deli. The current operator is John Paula. He has established a café featuring coffee drinks, panini grilled sandwiches and other freshly made deli items. The place has been refreshed on a shoestring budget and John has created a bright and cheerful space both inside and out. The interior is filled with light and plenty of room to sit at four good-sized interior tables and patio tables outside.
John himself matches the café. He is pretty darn cheerful and creates an atmosphere that is friendly and bright. Born in the Anderson Valley and a graduate of Anderson Valley schools (AVHS Class of 2010). Sydney Fraser, Colter Winchester and Heather Knight were three of his classmates with Willy Schmitt one year ahead of him.
This new Floodgate store was originally started by John, his brother and his sister-in-law, but now John is going it alone with some occasional help from his mom Buffy and dad Butch. Although the building, owned by the family, is currently up for sale, the plan is to sign a lease with the prospective new owner to continue running the café after the sale.
John always liked toasted sandwiches and it seemed like paninis filled a niche as the Navarro Store has the BBQ market covered. As to his background in food John remembers getting an Emeril Lagasse cookbook as a kid and being into cooking up some of those recipes. Working at the Boonville Hotel in the summers he started as a server and was eventually assisting Brennan in the kitchen as a sous chef. He also helped Brooks Schmitt when he had his food truck. Buffy had her stint running the a store and deli in the mid 90s when John remembers bagging groceries and stacking kindling for sale after school at 5 or 6 years old.
The Paula family has owned the property for over 40 years. Butch (who came into the café and sat down with us during this interview) shared some of his memories. He was originally advised to buy the Floodgate by Claudina Pinoli. Claudina, a local healer of great reputation, was instrumental in healing Butch's dad (a dairyman in Petaluma) from crippling multiple sclerosis. Claudina became a friend of the family and when Butch said he wanted to buy the Navarro Store she said “No, buy the Floodgate.” At the time the Floodgate’s owners of 27 years duration were Marguerite and Sam Avery. They were not interested in selling to a “longhaired hippy” and it took cutting his hair short and shaving off his beard to get their attention.
Long story short, it took awhile. including a property swap of a house Butch built in Petaluma, for the store before it became a done deal. Butch remembers wondering how anyone could stay in the same place for 27 years! At the time it was mainly loggers, locals and tree planters who became his customers.
Some of the many businesses that have occupied the site include, The Bewildered Pig, Coq Au Vin, Kathy and Jerry Cox’s store, John Schmitt’s restaurant, an Italian restaurant and a Mexican store.
I asked John why he decided to settle in the valley as a young adult. He told me he likes the quiet life and being close to family. He has been in business since mid-May and things are going well. Although he will be closed for 10 days over the holidays, he will reopen from 7am to 5pm Thursday to Monday beginning January 3rd. You can phone in an order for one of his delicious paninis at 707 380-3154. Look online for a listing of his entire menu. Everything is fresh made — no frozen anything. I have had the mozzarella and dried tomato, also the pastrami — both excellent. I wanted to try the Jalapeno with bacon jam but it has always been sold out. There are many creative combinations to choose from. The sandwiches are not cheap, but they are in line with current prices elsewhere, the portions are very large and super high quality: worth the money. John’s goal is to offer good food consistently while putting some creativity into it. Mission accomplished!
When asked what he likes best about his new endeavor John says meeting new people and getting more contact with people he already knew is great. Describing himself as not exactly an extrovert, he is having a chance to be more engaged and he likes it. He is happy to share his knowledge of local history with those who express an interest. As a lifetime resident he is well placed to know what he’s talking about.
If you are not a panini person the deli case holds fresh garden salads, albacore salads, pickled beets, deviled eggs and a host of other treats. Also very popular are the homemade rice crispy treats, especially good paired with his savory coffee drinks. Get a friend to meet you at 1810 Highway 128 to enjoy a great breakfast (breakfast sandwiches on tap) or lunch or just a coffee break and a chat. It may be your first time at the new Floodgate, but I bet it won’t be your last.
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