Allan Green, founder and long time owner of Greenwood Ridge Winery and Tasting Room, has recently published a book titled, “Pioneers of Anderson Valley Wine.” Anyone with an interest in the early days of the wine industry in Mendocino County can take advantage of an in-person presentation by the author on February 22nd at 2:00 in the Anderson Valley Historical Museum Rose Room 12340 Highway 128 in Boonville. Admission is free and all are welcome.
Having worked for Allan at his tasting room in Philo for 10 years, I can vouch for his effectiveness as a public speaker. Originator and former host of “Straight Ahead Rock N Roll” on KZYX, his vocal style is professional, smooth and upbeat — very listenable.
When interviewed Allan explained that his reason for putting together this book came from watching a video presented by the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association highlighting the people who were in the Valley in the beginnings of commercial winegrowing including Deborah Cahn, Ted Bennett, Brad Wiley, Allan and second generation winemakers like Lulu Handley, Zac Robinson and Norman Kobler. It occurred to him that soon those with knowledge of those early days would be gone taking their history with them. He resolved to put together a documentary book before it was too late.
Using his existing knowledge of winery history, he contacted everyone he could think of who night contribute. Eileen and Angelo Pronsolino had memories, writings and photos. Robert Pinoli had early family photos. The cover of the book shows a rustic out building complete with an early destemmer on the Lazy Creek Ranch. The Pronsolinos’ grapevines circa 1930 appear on the back cover. The title page shows an early Zeni Ranch harvest crew. There are many other good photos illustrating the text. Allan compiled memories from the following, Neill Bell, Brad Wiley, Lucie Marshall, Jed Steele, Zac Robinson, Theo Carrel, Ted Bennett, Deborah Cahn, John Scharffenberger, Carolyn Bowen, Thom Elkjer, Jeff Burroughs, Norman Kobler, Lulu Handley, and Dan Berger. Having many voices tell the story is interesting as each sees a different piece of the bigger winery and vineyard picture.
This book is coming out at a poignant moment as the “Golden Age of Anderson Valley Wineries” is receding. The boom that saw the first three tasting rooms in 1985 grow to 30 in 2020 is over. Alan points out that wine has always been a boom and bust business. 2026 finds the industry in a downswing. The immigrant era gave way to the small passion project wineries, then moved toward corporate ownership, and now in some cases is downsizing.
In the earliest days the largely Italian immigrants brought a wine drinking culture with them. They knew how to grow grapes and how to make wine. The second wave of boomers from the “Back to the land” generation liked wine but did not have agricultural backgrounds. Allan shared, “It was amazing how helpful and collaborative we were at that time. We were all in the same boat, not knowing and using trial and error. We shared equipment and whatever we could. We had to rely on each other because we were so ill equipped.”
It seems at one point Allan was standing at a crossroads in his life. He had a job offer from Sunset magazine to become an assistant art director. Instead he took the “road less traveled” and moved to Philo. When asked why he made that choice he simply said, “I just loved being here.”
That choice was a lucky one for Anderson valley as he brought a solid business and local jobs to a good number of people over many years.
Come and hear Allan share his new book and personal experiences on the 22nd. You are bound to learn something you never knew about wine growing in Anderson Valley.
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